Showing posts with label Helmet Flasher. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Helmet Flasher. Show all posts

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Project Updates (or, I am probably not dead)

So, it recently came to my attention that I haven't posted in several months.  This is due, in large part, to my actually getting work done on my PhD.  This is also due to the fact that the next steps are relatively... un-glamorous and un-postable.  Specifically, I have a small issue with the REM detector, and I need to figure out what's wrong with the battery charger circuit.  On the up side, I was able to significantly reduce the standby power consumption of my helmet flasher so... little victories.

Charger Debugging

As it stands, the Lithium-Polymer battery charging circuit does not work.  This is ironic, as it was the only sub-circuit that I did not mock up and test before ordering the circuit boards (I even mocked up the 3.3V buck converter, which only had three components).  I did this because, well... I was just using the reference implementation.  I've gone over the design (and the physical artifact's correspondence to it) with a fine-toothed comb; at this point, I'd like to swap the chip to see if that's the issue.  Unfortunately, I do not own a hot-air rework station, so that is easier said than done.  Additionally, the chip gets REALLY hot and sources a bunch of current when you plug it in, which complicates debugging, as I can only leave it plugged in for short periods.  Further, even if I could simply replace the chip, I'd be leery of doing it, as the new chip could easily fry as well.  This is triply annoying, as I would like to add the charger to my helmet and run signal glove in their next iteration, but can't do that until I know I've got the circuit right.

REM Detector Hiccups

The specific problem with the detector is that, for certain levels of illumination, the the detector output follows a 'negative bias' for every fourth sample; this is illustrated below.  Looking at the 'noise' and mean of the signal after separating it into four down-sampled signals (that is, the first sub-signal is every four samples of the original, starting with the first sample of the whole record; the second is every four starting with the second, etc.), it appears that this really is just a constant 'bias' term added only to every fourth sample.
This is an example of the detector output against my hand; green is the differential signal, dark blue is the single-ended signal, and light blue/cyan is the illuminator amplitude.  As you can see, the signal appears to get much more 'noisy' as the illumination level increases, until it abruptly decreases at a certain level.
Zoomed in view of the 'noisy' segment from above; we see that the extra 'noise' is due to every fourth sample being much lower than the other three.  This pattern is also borne out in the single-ended signal.
My current hypothesis is that this is due to my use of low-passed PWM outputs to give myself some extra low-bandwidth analog outputs to control the REM detector illumination level and the differential signal bias level.  Specifically, since the sample-specific noise only occurs at certain levels of illumination, and then suddenly stops once the level raises above that level, I am lead to believe that it's something to do with the PWM switching time lining up with the ADC sampling time.

If that's the case, I'll have to decrease the passing of switching transients by reducing the corner frequency of the low-pass and/or increasing the carrier frequency of the PWM.  Of course, increasing the carrier frequency will reduce the resolution of the LP-PWM channels; however, since I don't use the full resolution anyway, it wouldn't be much of a sacrifice.

Helmet flash controller standby power reduction

Going back to the helmet flasher project, I noticed that the AA batteries were getting drained in a manner that was less-than-consistent with usage.  I recalled that I had been less than diligent in regards to standby power usage, so I figured I could shave off a few milliamps by taking a closer look.

There were two main methods I figured I could use to reduce standby power use: put the controller into a deeper sleep state while in standby, and modify the hardware so that I could remove power from the op-amps used int he constant-current LED drivers.

The first approach, going into a deeper sleep state, was the first I implemented since it didn't involve modifying the hardware.  Before making my changes, I inserted a 1-Ohm 1% precision resistor to measure the standby current draw.  I set the device to go into "power down" when going into the standby state, with wake-up accomplished by state change on any of the buttons.  Additionally, I set the device to go into "standby" while the timers count and wait to move on to the next flasher state.  The source is available here, in case it is useful to someone wanting to see how a non-human primate would implement the preceding.

After implementing the sleep state changes, the standby power consumption went from 2.1mA to 1.7mA.  Good, but we're not finished.  Since the on-state power consumption is in the range of 100-200mA, it was impossible to detect if my changes had an effect on on-state power consumption.

The next step was to switch off the power to the linear constant-current LED driver block.  The op-amps used in that block draw current even when the LEDs are off, so it made sense to try to switch the power off when the device was in standby.  Since the analog block was currently fed directly from the power rail, it was necessary to cut that source first.

Since the op-amps only draw a few milliamps (far less than the 30mA the controller pins are rated for), it made sense to feed them from one of the controllers output pins; this way, I didn't need to add any additional FETs.  After doing this, and making the appropriate changes in the firmware, the standby power consumption fell from 1.7mA to less than 0.1mA.

Overall, these changes reduced standby power consumption from 2.1 to 0.1mA; a more than 95% reduction.  This makes me much more comfortable with leaving the batteries in when I'm not using it.

Next Steps

So, the most immediate next steps involve fixing the REM detector problem outlined above and making the charger circuit work.  After that, though, there are a couple of immediate next steps:

Finally finalize the sleep mask hardware

The current version of the sleep mask hardware is... clunky.  Pointy.  Eye-pokey, even.  Since it was a first prototype, I didn't put all the effort in the world into optimizing the layout, or the parts (I just used the components I had on hand, instead of sourcing the absolute smallest I could find).  Once I'm confident that the hardware is up to snuff, I can source the absolute smallest components (especially the controller and FETs/op-amps and the passives) and re-design the board.  To do that, though, I need to rectify the problems listed above (REM four-sample noise, charger broken).  Additionally, I'll need to take a few nights' worth of data and specify a classifier/filter that can detect 'REM' to my satisfaction; if the hardware needs revision to get to that point, I'd rather do so before the next hardware revision.

On a somewhat unrelated point, I'm going to hack up the headphone amplifier hardware to see if I can't make it more efficient.  As it stands, the white noise component consumes the lion's share of the power for the device.  Looking at the output of the headphone amp, the 'square edges' of the DAC output are preserved to the output; this might be causing greater power consumption than necessary.  If I introduce a high-pass before the headphone amp and shave those square edges off, I might be able to significantly reduce my power consumption.

Update the helmet flasher and glove turn signal hardware; make a decision about the helmet

As I've said above, I'd like to make the turn signal glove and helmet flasher run on rechargeable lithium-polymer batteries.  To do that, I need to make sure that the charger chip and circuit work as advertised.

Additionally, I need to make some decisions about the helmet flasher.  As it stands, it steps the battery voltage up to 16V to drive the LEDs in series.  This was done partially since I originally had intended to add some EL wire to the helmet; EL wire requires ~150V AC, and my intent was to switch current through some step-up transformers.  The transformers could be smaller/have a lower turns ratio if my switched DC voltage was larger.

This step-up is expensive (3$ for the controller alone, to say nothing of the related caps and inductor).  However, the series wiring of the LEDs allows the brightness/current of the LEDs to be more consistent.  Maintaining the step-up would also mean that I wouldn't have to re-wire my existing helmet.

Design the sleep mask PCB version 2

As I said above, once the sleep mask hardware is finalized, I'll source smaller components, and then redesign to the circuit board.  I figure it will be installed above the nose in the mask, with leads going down to the REM detector and red LEDs.  I'll also incorporate power control of the analog block, as I did for the helmet above, to reduce standby power consumption.

Order new boards + components; assemble + test

Just what it says: pick the new smaller components, order them and the boards, then build everything.

Software development of the sleep mask

At this point, the hardware for the sleep mask should be more-or-less finalized.  All that will be left is putting together the firmware.

I haven't given a lot of thought to the design of the interface or the overall design of the firmware.  However, I have given some thought to potential features I can try out, including:
  • REM-relative wake-up alarm: only wakes you up if you are at the tail end of an REM cycle (or you've reached some no-later-then-this time).  I haven't checked the science behind this, but I've heard that you wake up more refreshed if you wake up at the end of a cycle, rather than during the deep sleep in the middle.
  • Sleep induction using entrainment: again, I haven't looked into how rigorous the science is behind this is, but some advocate the use of binaural beats or isochronous pulses to induce lower-frequency EEG states, assisting the user away from consciousness.
  • External cues for lucid dreaming induction: the original purpose.
  • Slowly increasing LED illumination to ease wake-up: just what I said, improve wake-up by gradually increasing illumination within the mask along with the natural dawn.
  • REM logging: save the timestamps of REM periods, allow them to be transferred over USB.  Share on facebook?
  • USB bootloader: I know that Atmel provides one, I just need to see where it's hosted and play with it.




Sunday, July 29, 2012

Bicycle helmet complete (or, the afore-promised inconsequential blinking-light projects)

I have finally completed the bicycle helmet flasher project (that I added as an afterthought to the REM sleep mask PCB).  The design and fabrication of the controller module was outlined in a previous post; here I show the results of finally installing the lights into my existing helmet.


Additionally, the source has been slightly modified (available here); the device now has three buttons, one each for brightness of the forward and rear lights and the third setting the mode (off, both flashing, rear flashing with forward steady on).


The outside of the helmet is shown below; first from ahead, then from behind.  The LEDs are mounted within the hollows of the helmet, using folded-over staples as an initial anchor, then doused with two-part epoxy.





The helmet in action is shown below:

The helmet is shown from the inside below; the LEDs are wired in series.  The leads of the LEDs go through tough plastic strips which are anchored to the helmet with bent-up office staples; everything is further stabilized with a healthy helping of two-part epoxy.


The interface consists of three buttons adhered to the side of the helmet (visible in the video above).  Everything on the helmet should be water-proof (though the controller module and battery pack are not currently water-proofed, as they are very much prototypes).

Moving forward, I would want to optimize/shrink the controller module, and incorporate a lithium-polymer battery pack with USB charging; hopefully, this would allow the whole battery/controller module to fit within the hollows of the helmet (rather than having a tethered AA battery pack hanging off of the back, as it is currently)

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Project updates (or, trading a few milligrams of epidermis for a few milligrams of reflowed solder)

Due to travel (and actual, legitimate research), I've not been able to progress on these projects much in the last few weeks.  Additionally, getting the boards from Seeed took a little while (though it was worth it, 10 boards for 15$ is nothing to sneeze at; they're shown immediately below).


Today, I got back into things by trying out a little hot skillet reflow.  Going off of resources at SparkFun and this instructable, it seemed the cheapest method available to me.  To apply the paste, I didn't have the time, money or patience to do solder paste stencilling (shown in the previous links); so, I applied the paste manually, as at this site.  Unfortunately, I didn't realize that the paste formulations are different between stencil and syringe application; I loaded some stencil paste from Sparkfun (here) into a syringe and it was very tough to get it to come out.

One thing to be aware of with the stencil-type solder paste: it behaves a lot more like wet sand than any sort of easily-coaxed gel.  Syringe-type paste might behave a little better/differently.

In any event, I was able to reflow the majority of the components on the (hastily thrown together) helmet flasher board, shown below (apologies for the poor picture quality).  I have seen heating-element control boards for toaster ovens and skillets to get the perfect heat profile; in my case, cranking the thing up to max temp and waiting for the solder to turn shiny sufficed.  Note the blue wire fix; I forgot to connect the enable line for the step-up to a free pin on the controller.



Debugging revealed only two small errors in the reflow; two of the pins on the stepup controller were bridged (easily separated) and one of the resistors in the current controller didn't reflow (also easily rectified).  The step-up produces 'high voltage' (16.5V), the pots have all been manually set (one to set the high voltage level, the other two to set the maximum constant-current levels) and the controller talks to my programmer.

The next steps for this quick project are A) create a simple program for this thing, and B) assemble the in-helmet parts of the project (lights, switches and 2xAA battery pack installed, wiring routed).  There's also the more pie-in-the-sky goal of implementing the EL drivers (but I haven't quite sourced the transformers yet; not enough of my CFL bulbs have gone out yet).

Of course, just because the project has barely started doesn't mean I'm not already thinking about version 2; specifically, I'd want to implement the following changes:
A: source smaller components, with specs sized more appropriately for this project.
B: add a LiPolymer battery and charger circuit to allow the controller module to be more monolithic and allow it to be charged over micro USB.
C: figure out a better connector solution between the helmet and the controller; the 0.1" headers I'm using were chosen for inventory convenience.

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Project updates (or, why is it that the least interesting parts of a project make up most of the effort?)

In the last few weeks (since I tested out the OLED display), I've been getting all of the last little details in place to move forward with the sleep mask project.  Specifically, since the circuits have been finalized, I have been laying out the printed circuit board and making certain that I have all of the necessary components on hand (and putting together an order for those I do not).

The cheapest service I could find is Seeed Studio's Fusion PCB service.  For a mere 10$ you get 10 5x5cm boards; an extra 15$ gets you 5x10cm.

After completing the board layout (shown below), I found that it was more than 5x5cm.  It is larger than I had hoped, but still reasonable relative to the size of the sleep mask.  A large part of its... largeness... is due to the fact that I was designing based on the parts I already had in my inventory.  Those parts, in turn, were chosen to be usable across many projects; as a result, they are usually rated for much higher voltages, currents, and dissipated energies than are strictly necessary for this project.  This is okay for a prototype, but any future hardware revisions will involve specifying more appropriately-sized resistors and capacitors.

Since I was going to have to pay for an extra 5cm of board, I decided to make the best of it and add a circuit for a project I've had on the back burner for a while.  Specifically, I want to build some flashing lights into my bicycle helmet for safety; some of the lights will be ordinary LEDs, but eventually I want to build some EL wire into the helmet to give a real Vegas feel.  To do this, I need 'high voltage' (about 20V) to step up to 120V using transformers.  While I am still collecting the transformers (I take them out of burned-out CFL lightbulbs, as transformers or even bare magnetics of appropriate size have proven difficult to source), I am going to move forward with getting this board, including the 20V step-up and LED constant-current drivers, layed out and ordered.  It is also shown in the image below.


The REM sleep mask board is on the left; the microcontroller is in the middle, with the micro USB connector above, battery charger above right, buck converter right, REM detector bottom left, headphone amplifier left and OLED display top left.  The helmet flasher/boost board is on the right; boost top left, EL wire switches bottom left, microcontroller bottom right and LED drivers top right.